Summer in review: the best dog-friendly destinations we visited this season

You asked for destination guides, so here we go!

Autumn has well and truly set in here in Oxfordshire, which has got me thinking about the intrepid summer we’ve just had. I’m currently in the throes of researching and writing my third book — this time a curated guide to my favourite dog-friendly destinations in Europe — and as part of that we’ve had some serious adventures. Here’s a few of my favourites.

The Dolomites, Italy

Taking trains across Europe with a dog is a bit of a mission (there are many rules and regulations for each of the different train providers which can be confusing), but earlier this summer Arty and I took to the rails with Byway Travel to reach Venice by public transport from my home in Oxfordshire. It was an epic journey involving several trains, overnight ferries, and a sleeper service that got us into Venice at 9am. The city of Venice isn’t the most dog-friendly in the world — that’s a whole other newsletter — but from here we took more trains up into the mountains where we hired a car to explore the striking Dolomites.

The sheer, raw beauty of the rocky ridges the Dolomites are famous for were as spectacular in real life as they were in the photos I’d seen before we travelled. And for dogs, this region is spectacular: awe-inspiring walks abound, and there are a few unusual attractions, too. It’s easy to explore the region by public transport (dogs must be muzzled on trains and buses) or car, and we had a delicious time exploring the mountain hut restaurants on the plateaus of Alta Badia. Here are my top tips from the Dolomites:

Do one thing: Go to Bolzano for a day to explore this pretty Germanic city where you can visit the prehistoric, preserved “Iceman” at the South Tyrol Archeological Museum (small dogs only; must be carried). The story of Ötzi, who lived between 3350 and 3105 BCE, and the discovery of his body (he was found in the high mountains by a pair of hikers in the 1990s) is absolutely fascinating — a must-visit.

Walk this way: Take the cable cars up into the mountains of Alta Badia to walk one of the many mountain trails — map here.

Stay at: Hotel Hanswirt is around 30-minutes from Bolzano by car and has a gorgeous pool where dogs can lounge by the side while you swim. Dinners here are exceptional, with the best salad selection you’ll ever see. Alternatively, head right into the mountains to La Villa in Alta Badia where Hotel Antines will spoil your dog with a homemade dinner each night and views from the balcony are mesmerising.

Oxford, England

Okay, I am biased — this is my home city. But Oxford is a gorgeous place to bring the dog for a weekend. While we can’t take the dog to the pretty colleges and churches this city is famous for, there is plenty more to do and just walking around Oxford is enchanting (especially early morning when the crowds have yet to descend).

With the Thames running through the middle and myriad parklands and meadows for walking, it is a surprisingly dog-friendly place. We spent some time in Oxford this summer while I was reviewing several hotels for The Telegraph and writing this piece for National Geographic Traveller. Here’s my top picks for dog-friendly Oxford:

Do one thing: Punting on the River Cherwell with a dog — you’ll need two humans for this, but once on the water it’s a serene way to see the city’s green outskirts.

Walk this way: There are so many places to walk in Oxford (and I’ve even written a guided walking tour of the centre in Dog Days Out), but one of the best is Port Meadow, where you can stroll along the Thames to the pretty village of Godstow and nip into the Trout for a dog-friendly lunch.

Stay at: The Store, a brand new hotel in the centre of Oxford in the old Boswells department store. There’s a dog-friendly section of the restaurant, they provide beds and bowls in the room, and the staff love dogs.

Wallonia, Belgium

I won’t blame you if you’ve never heard of Wallonia — this is the little-known region of Belgium that doesn’t get the press like Antwerp, Brussels or Bruges does. But we spent four nights in the city of Dinant and found tonnes for dog owners to enjoy here, and some impressive scenery.

Dinant sits on the River Meuse and is surrounded by steep hills and rocky cliffs, and beyond lies a patchwork of farmland and rolling vineyards (yes, in Belgium!) ripe for exploring. We walked miles, ate plenty of mussels and chips (a Belgian classic) and sampled lots of beer (thank you, dog-friendly Caracole Brewery). Here are my top picks for dog-friendly Wallonia:

Do one thing: Okay, maybe do two — if you love beer, don’t miss a visit to Maison Leffe which charts the history of the most famous Belgian beer in the world (there are free samples at the end). And if you don’t love beer but like a little history, visit Dinant Citadel — a huge fortress that sits high above the city on a clifftop with a rickety cable car that takes you down into town. Don’t miss one of the underground rooms that got hit by a shell during wartime and is now very much on the wonk (not suitable for those with vertigo!).

Walk this way: For gorgeous scenery, head to Lac de Nisramont for a day-long stroll with the dog.

Stay at: Castel de Pont-à-Lesse is a humble hotel with a brilliant riverside location. You’ve got epic forest hikes on your doorstep and it’s just a 10-minute drive to Dinant.

Norfolk, England

Norfolk’s beaches are probably some of the most dog-friendly in the country, so this county wins out for seaside breaks. Our most recent trip was for the All About Dogs show in Norfolk Showground, but I stayed about an hour away in lovely Trunch with East Ruston Cottages. Farthing Cottage was an ultra-dog-friendly property: dog tags with the cottage address on, anxious dog labels for the lead, a fully enclosed garden and tonnes of dog clobber in the garage. We were lucky enough to be there when the local social club was running a beer festival, so plenty of Norfolk brews were consumed, and some fish and chips, too. Here’s my picks for Norfolk:

Do one thing: The boat trips with Beans Boat Trips to see the seals around Blakeney Point are the safest and coolest way to see Norfolk’s lolloping residents.

Walk this way: Happisburgh Beach is a gorgeous year-round dog-friendly stretch of sand (low tide only), with a trail that leads to its iconic lighthouse on the coastal path.

Stay at: Any East Ruston Cottages property, which are all categorised based on whether they’re dog-friendly or reactive dog-friendly.

The Loire Valley, France

It’s safe to say the Touraine region of the Loire Valley blew me away. The area around Tours is awash with things to do for dog owners, from vineyard visits to château walks and lots more. The French love their dogs, and it’s evident here as Arty was welcome almost everywhere I went. I visited Tours and the surrounding region in April as part of my big caravan road trip, so here’s what I recommend:

Do one thing: I can’t pick one, so here’s two… Château de Chenonceau is one of the most famous castles in this region and there’s good reason — sitting on the river with a near-perfect reflection in the water’s surface, it’s a stunner of a building. Dogs can come inside as long as they’re carried, and if you’re up for lugging your German Shepherd around they won’t mind — there’s no size restriction! The second highlight here is the Vouvray Caves, a network of underground caves that were bored out for stone used to build the region’s castles, now used as storage for some of the Loire’s best wines. Tours and tastings are a must, and the dog is welcome, too.

Walk this way: Combine your dog walk with a food tour with Food Tours in Tours, run by an Irish woman who has lived in the city for much of her life. Never has a dog walk been so delicious.

Stay at: We camped at Le Parc du Val de Loire, which is a brilliant family-friendly site with entertainment in peak season for the kids. There are myriad other sites nearby with the Caravan and Motorhome Club, all with dog facilities on site.